Maha shivaratri, the night of Lord Shiva, where tens of thousands of devotees and pilgrims from all over Nepal and India and other parts of the world converge at the Pashupati Nath temple complex, falls on the 1st of March or the end of the month of February.

For more than a week before and after Shivaratri the area around the Pashupati Nath temple complex and Gaushala is transformed into a mammoth fair of shorts with food stalls, pavement markets and clusters of temporary shelters where lifestyles and human activities of a mind-boggling variety can be evidenced. Colourful costumes of the many different ethnic and tribal pilgrims from India sporting intriguing headgear, ranging from turbans to towels around the scalp; long flowering dresses, pantaloons and loin cloths, along with the ubiquitous Sarees, all form a fascinating contrast to the many fakirs and yogis in their birthday suits.

One of the most important Hindu festivals in honor of lord Shiva, Shivaratri is a commemoration to the gentler aspect of Lord Shiva in His manifestation as Pashu- Pati, master/ protector of all living being. The genesis of Shivaratri festival is attributed to the following legend of Hindu mythology:-

It is believed that ludhaka, a hunter fleeing creditors seeks sanctuary in a Shiva temple where he is encompassed by the aura of lord Shiva and is overcome by the chanting of devotional songs in praise of lord Shiva. He is also released of his debt when one of the devotees pays off his creditors.

Immediately on departing from the temple, ludhaka the hunter hides himself amidst the foliage of a Bel tree looking for a prey. Unknown to him, his movements among the branches of the Bel tree causes some leaves to fall on a hidden lingam under the tree- an action believed to be most auspicious. While waiting for his prey to appear he passes time by chanting SHIVA! Shiva! In the manner that the devotees at the temple had done.

By the evening, a pregnant doe nears the tree where ludaka is hidden. On drawing his bow and taking aim, the alarmed doe begs him to spare her life. The doe tells the hunter that he may kill another doe which is to appear shortly otherwise she requested the hunter to allow her to give birth to her young following which she would return to Bel killed. The hunter by virtue of his repeating lord Shiva’s name has by now become almost a lover of animals and making the doe swear that she would return, he lets her go.

Ludhaka sits on the tree all afternoon and evening, more often than not, repeating the name of lord Shiva. He is starving all day into the evening and by midnight when another doe appears on the scene, with the pangs of hunger pressurizing him he takes aim at the restless doe obviously seeking her mate. On seeing ludhaka this doe also requests him to spare her so that she is able to seek her mate after which she promises to return to be killed. Despite his intense hunger and a wasted day Ludhaka also lets her go.

Shortly a big buck appears seeking his mate. The buck too requests that he be spared till he is able to find his mate after which he promises to come back to be killed. The hunter lets the buck free too. This first doe delivers her young while the second doe and the black buck have conjugal happiness. Having delivered her young the first doe goes back to the hunter as promised. The buck asks his mate, the second doe, to remain while he wishes to return to the hunter to be killed. His mate refuses to be left behind and the two go together to be killed. Thus all three deer appear before Ludhaka and offer to be killed.

The sins of the hunter, in the meantime had been expiated by his all night vigil and his repeating the name of lord Shiva. A  sense of compassion and realization that the killing game for meat is evil dawns upon him. He preaches a sermon to the deer and let them all go. It is believed that at that moment messengers of lord shiva appear in a celestial carriage and transport him to Shivaloka.

In the hindu mythology Bramha is represented as the creator, Vishnu as a preserver and Shiva as the destroyer. Therefore the above legend which glorifies the compassionate manifestation of lord Shiva as the lord and protector of all living beings is commemorated every year in the form of Shivaratri.

During shivaratri, the temple of Pashupatinath dedicated to lord Shiva, becomes all spruced up in anticipation of the arrival of sadhus, yogis and other holy men as well as the hundreds of thousands of devout Hindu pilgrims. The fact that all devout Hindus believe a visit to the holy Pashupati  Nath temple will absolve all past sins and the preference to make this pilgrimage during the time of Shivaratri, the most auspicious of Shivaratri festivals, is one of the main reasons for the annual congregation of this vast multitude of humanity.

The days before and after Shivaratri sees the collection of vast numbers of people from all walks of life as well as providing a kaleidoscope of many different ethnic and tribal races of Nepal and India. People fill the roads around Pashupati Nath temple holy men, some half clad, some covered in ash but entirely nude; pilgrims in their distinct and colorful tribal costumes; vendors selling practically everything from vermillion powder, beads, monkey nuts to coca cola and snakes. The odd foreign tourist and the curious hawkers also form part of this vast collection of humanity.

People gather on the hillside across the river from the Pashupati Nath temple as well as around the vicinity of the temple complex in groups around campfires and in makeshift shelters, discussing various topics while maintaining a fast and a vigil in anticipation of the religious ceremonies. Marijuana smoking mendicants, many with long mustache, some with fabulously photographable hairstyles dot the area, serene and trancelike, emulating lord Shiva himself, who it is believed to smoke the stuff.

At midnight Shivaratri festival officially begins with the priests inside the main temple making offerings of the auspicious pancha amrit to the Lingam of Lord Shiva. Throughout the night, devotees in an almost never-ending stream, file through the gates of the main temple to sprinkle milk, flowers, coins and rice offerings on the Lingam of Lord shiva to be followed by a ritualistic bath in the river every few hours as dictated by the rituals. At about six o’clock in the morning priests start the recitation of sacred texts which can be heard for miles around being amplified through loud –speakers strategically spread all over the Pashupati Nath temple complex. This chanting of prayers continues till mid day followed by the singing of bhajans. The mammoth turnout of pilgrims is such, that devotees and believers are still involved in the elaborate religious activities many days after the actual night of fasting. As is inevitable after a period of fasting, there is the ritual partaking of food and sweatmeats following the festivities of Shivaratri. Naturally there are vast numbers of food stalls selling many varieties of food and sweets.

For non- Hindus, Shivaratri offers a fascinating insight into a very important religious event as well an opportunity to see diverse cultures, peoples and costumes with the most gawked at and photographed being the Hindu holy men- the Sadhus and yogis, smeared in ash, their foreheads striated with many different and intriguing designs under many different types of hair –do. Absolute naked ascetics, with rings in their genital roam through the crowds mindless of the stares and glances and to the intense cold of the Himalayan winter, having mastered their minds to withstand the heat, cold and inhibition of all types. Priests too, in their many different garbs and as many variations of ochre and brown, engrossed in their often esoteric rituals at different shrines and temples contribute to the fascination of the Shivaratri festival.

For the devout Hindus who come from far away to experience the Shivaratri festivities and take a dip in the holy waters of Bagmati river, it is often a once-in-a-lifetime experience. As for the curious tourist – Shivaratri is just an unbelievable experience.